Licq Atherey: lies in the Haute Soule, a province of the Pays Basque. This area , that actually starts in Menditte on the road to Mauleon is cleft with a number of valleys.

Our vallee goes by the name of La Saison, which also is the name of the gave- a Pyreneean title to a mountain torrent or river. Further up the valley lie two other villages- Larrau and Saint Engrace.

The roads through to Spain have been constructed in living memory- see a sign in Larrau, near a disused customs post. The province was frequented by contrabandiers. There are many stories of how the police dealt or did not deal with this practice.

Going East into the Bearn, you will find three other valleys; Baretous, Aspe,and Ossau. They have their own unique cultures and are well worth a visit. The Tour de France wends its way across the heights and slopes in July. In winter months they can get cut off by snow. However in the rest of the year access to Spain is open and a challenging day out. Beware of mists and rain in early spring and late autumn.

Vallee de Baretous: This is on the main road to Oloron-Sainte-Marie. The villages of repute are Aramits and Lanne (Good boulangerie). The latter is distinguished by Dumas' “Three Musketeers” and has a good market on Sunday. Arette is on this  vallee's access road to Spain. This leads you to Pierre Saint Martin, the local skiing resort( very gentle and relaxed).There is apparently the deepest cave in the world nearby. The GR10 and GR11 cross the summits into Lescun( see later)

Val d'Aspe: This is the main access into Spain apart from the coast road via Bayonne and Irun. In the last decade the Tunnel de Somport opened as a main route for vehicles. This development caused much resistance with squatters and disputes at law. ( The French enjoy a good squabble!). Now the 8 kilometre tunnel allows juggernauts through this beautiful  pass. The villages of Sarrance,

Eygun , Betous, Borce , all have their own individual charm. Along the side of the road is the infrastructure of the rail link to Spain- established by Franco and the French in the last century. It is rumoured that it is to be revived with real trains as a result of European funds!

The cloisters of Sarrance and the magnificent Cirque de Lescun are not to be missed. The latter is a UNESCO heritage site with stunning views and a panoramic walks. In fact a day in  Aragon and Jaca  is really attractive.  Canfranc Estacion is the Spanish end of the railway with a magnificent terminus which formed the backdrop in “ Doctor Zhivago”. Try the  San Juan de la Pena   should you like a Romanesque pantheon.

Val d'Ossau: The next valley provides alternative scenery with “  La Falaise des Vautors”,, a cliff with telescopic views of the great birds and their young.

St Engrace- XI eme Romanesque church. Straight up the road towards Licq, after about three miles, take the left fork. After another five miles or so you will see it on the right.

Gorges de Ejuharre  - approach via St Engrace.  This is a ‘sauvage’ gorge, rather rough underfoot.  We have not actually completed it.  It needs a whole day I would think with the right footwear 

Gorge de Holzarte  - stunning views as you walk for about an hour towards a suspension bridge which crosses the gorge.  Well worth the effort.  .  Take the right hand fork after Licq to Iraty after about three miles you will see the car park and café on the left. Café  near the car park is a good place to recover after a long foot slog. Best time to walk is early morning when we have done there and back in two hours)

Foret d’Iraty Drive through Licq until you get to the mini round about.  Take the right hand fork to Iraty.  Keep going and you will eventually find the largest non coniferous forest in Europe. If you take the binoculars you might see some interesting birds of prey. The silence is stunning and you can hear it some days.

Gorge de Kakouetta You pay about €4 each at the café, and is well worthwhile.  Water falls and lush vegetation. My favourite place, so far (On the road to St Engrace.)

Drive from Haux to Montory Take the road just down from the house towards Tardets turn right marked “Haux and Moulin”. Nice little drive/walk through unspoilt countryside. Little mill is a place for a quiet picnic in walking distance.